Cedar Ridge RV Tips

Welcome to the RV Tips page brought to you by the Pro's at
Cedar Ridge RV Center

On this page you will find useful tips and hints on use, maintenance, or anything relating to RVs
This page will be updated on a regular basis, so please check back often.
If you have any questions, suggestions, comments or anything else you would like to share with us please e-mail the webmaster@crrv.com


Dec. 2006	The Christmas Season is here and we are all busy with the hustle and bustle that comes with the season. If you need any gift ideas for that RVer in your life, remember that RV Accessories make great gifts. You can shop for RV accessories on line at *www.crrv.com* or www.cedarridgervcenter.com . If you are going to be in the area, print this tip, (or the whole page), and stop by for an advanced copy of our ’07 Catalog. If you need help with gift ideas or anything else RV related, please contact us at 1-800-988-4884 or email us at rvpros@crrv.com. We also offer gift certificates! If you have a question on this or any other tip please e-mail us or call 800-988-4884
Nov. 2006	Last month I discussed battery winterization. This month applies more toward motor homes but can also apply to travel trailers equipped with generators. Any time you don’t use your rig for any length of time, fuel oxidation and the formation of gum and varnish in the fuel system, can become a problem. Today’s engines with very precise fuel injectors and generators with electronically controlled carburetors and injectors are very susceptible to blockage and sticking caused by this gum and varnish. This condition could hinder performance, prevent starting, and even cause expensive damage to the fuel system and the engine. To help prevent problems caused by fuel gumming, you may consider the use of a gasoline stabilizer for gasoline engines and/or a diesel fuel conditioner for diesel engines. Just add to the fuel tank as directed, start fuel lines and the fuel system of the engine and the generator. If you have a diesel powered coach with a diesel fuelled furnace you should run the furnace too. You may want to consider this not just for winterizing, but any time the rig will spend any length of time with little use or times when the fuel in the tank will not be used for several weeks.
Oct. 2006	October and November is usually winterize time for those of us who don’t take our rigs south for the winter. We all know we need to drain, blow out, and add RV anti-freeze to the plumbing system to protect it from freezing. This is the most basic level of winterization. In this and future tips I will address some other things you may want to make part of your winterizing routine. If you don’t plan on using your trailer or motor home at all through the winter you should remove all your batteries and store them in a ventilated area where they will be protected from freezing. If you plan on using your rig during the winter (we encourage it), or you can’t remove the batteries for the winter, you should make sure the batteries are maintained at a full charge through out the winter. If possible you may want to plug the RV in to a 110V AC power source so the built-in charger can maintain the battery, (on most motor homes this will not* charge the engine battery). You can also use a battery charger with over-charge protection to maintain the batteries. There are also solar chargers* available to help maintain batteries when it is not convenient to supply power to your rig. One other thing to remember, most deep cycle RV/Marine batteries are not maintenance free, meaning you should check the battery electrolyte levels at regular intervals.
Sept. 2006	Labor Day has passed, the kids are back in school, and the trees are starting to show hints of their autumn colors. With the noticeably shorter day-light hours come longer, cooler nights, necessitating the first use of the furnace of the season. There are a few things you should check on your furnace before you get up in the middle of the night, turn up the thermostat and then find out you have a problem. Before we go any further you need to keep in mind that your furnace is a propane fueled appliance and proper precautions need to be observed. Any time the integrity of the propane system is violated, a proper leak test should be performed. If at any time you smell gas, or suspect a leak, you should turn off the gas at the supply tank and contact a professional technician. That being said, there are a few simple things for you to check before firing up the furnace for the first time this season. First is find the exterior air intake and exhaust vents for the furnace. Make sure both are clear of any obstructions, and clean and clear of any debris such as insect nests. Next, inside the rig, make sure the area around the furnace is clean and there are no combustible and/or flammable items stored in the area, also make sure any return air vents or openings are clean and unblocked. Now you can turn on the furnace and set the thermostat to a high enough setting to call for heat. In a few moments you should hear the blower fan come on, now check that all furnace vent registers are clear of any obstructions and there is proper air flow from the vents. If there is no or weak air flow, check for blocked or collapsed ducts. By now the air from the registers should be warm. If not, turn the furnace off, check the gas supply, and try again. If the furnace will not turn on or you can not easily follow the above procedure, the services of a professional technician may be required. If you have a furnace with a pilot light or does not meet the description above, please contact us at rvpros@crrv.com or 1-800-988-4884.
Aug. 2006	August brings with it the “Dog Days of Summer”. Extreme heat and humidity can cause extensive damage to the interior of your RV. Temperatures inside a “closed up” vehicle can easily rise 30 degrees or more above the outside air temperature. On a 90 degree day, the interior temperature of your rig can exceed 120 degrees! The hot stagnant air can weaken the adhesives used in the construction of RVs. If there is enough moisture (humidity) in the air, the high temperatures can promote mold and bacteria growth. A good way to prevent this is to allow the hot air to escape from the rig by providing proper ventilation. There are many products available that when used alone, or with other products, will ventilate your rig when you are not there, and help make the interior more comfortable when you are. The most basic is a simple and affordable vent cover that installs over your roof vent, allowing the vent to be left open while preventing rain from entering through the open vent. Also available are vents with high volume fans that will exhaust a large quantity of air, especially when another vent or window is left open to provide circulation of fresh air from out side the RV. Some vents are also available with thermostat controlled fans and sensors that will turn off the fan and close the vent when it rains. There are even covers available to prevent rain from entering through open horizontal sliding windows.
July 2006	Insects, especially wasps, bees, and spiders (actually an arachnid), love to live in propane appliances, or so it seems. The reasons for this are many and often disputed, but in the end we Rv’ers still have to deal with wasp nests and spider webs in our propane gas appliances. The time lost and the cost of cleaning insect nests and spider webs can mount, especially if you keep your RV in an area where this can be a recurring problem. There is no way to 100% bug proof your appliances but there are ways to prevent these unwanted squatters from access to your appliances. Mud Dauber Screens install easily over intake and exhaust vents, and are available to fit most RV furnaces and water heaters. There is even a Mud Dauber Screen available for refrigerator vents.
June 2006	Today’s motor homes and travel trailers are loaded with dozens of electronic and computerized systems. These systems control almost everything from heat and air conditioning, to refrigeration, systems control and monitor panels, converters, inverters, televisions, satellite systems, entertainment systems, the list goes on and on. Any type of voltage surge or spike, over or under voltage or change in frequency can damage any one or more of these systems. Repairs to electronic systems are often costly and these failures never happen at a convenient time. To help protect you from power surges and spikes from lightning or faulty or incorrect wiring, you should use some form of surge protection. There are many options available, from basic portable plug-in surge protectors for less than $100.00, to built-in devices that protect you from over and under current and monitor your systems health and the quality on incoming power.
May 2006	Where to go? That is a popular question with us RVers. Most of us are determined to continue to travel with our rigs, but the rising cost of fuel is causing some of us to choose our trips more wisely. Some of us will limit our travel to trips relatively close to home, while others are opting for one long distance trip instead of several short to medium length trips. Whichever option you choose, proper trip planning is a must if you wish to keep fuel consumption under control. We have an assortment of Campground/RV Park Directories available to help you find a campground/ RV park to meet your needs as close to your destination as you like. We also stock road atlas and exit guides to help you plan your route and stops along the way. For those who prefer a more technological means of trip and route planning we offer several GPS Navigation systems.
Apr 2006	Your RV’s potable (fresh water) system should be sanitized at least once a year. Spring time is definitely a good time to perform this maintenance. The long period of non-use during the winter storage is a likely time for bacteria and algae to grow in the plumbing system. To properly sanitize and condition your fresh water system first remove all drain plugs and open all drain valves, including the water heater tank. Remove or by-pass any fresh water filters in the system. Once all water and/or anti-freeze has drained from system reinstall all drain plugs and close all valves. Now add a fresh water system conditioner such as “Spring Fresh” or “Taste Pure” as directed to the fresh water tank and fill with fresh water to specified level. Usually between ½ and ¾ full. Now turn on water pump and run water from all cold and hot faucets for approximately 2 minutes each. It may take a few minutes for the water to flow smoothly from the hot water faucets because the water heater tank has to fill. Take the RV for a short ride or rock the rig back and forth to agitate the water in the tank. If it’s not possible to move the rig then fill the fresh water tank to maximum capacity and wait 20 to 30 minutes. Remove all drain plugs and open all drain valves including the water heater again, and allow to completely drain. Reinstall all plugs and close all valves. If your water heater uses a “anode rod”, and it looks worn, now would be a good time to replace it with new. Refill your fresh water tank to capacity and drain once more to flush the tank of any remaining conditioner. Refill the fresh water tank again, turn on the water pump and run all faucets for at least 2 minutes to flush all lines. If any bad odors or debris continue, repeat this process again or contact our service department. Replace any fresh water filters with new. Your fresh water system is now ready for use. Any time your fresh water system stands empty or unused for any length of time you may consider sanitizing the system.
Mar. 2006	You can take certain precautions to decrease the possibility of damage to your tires during winter storage and other periods of long term storage. To prevent dry-rot (cracking of rubber usually seen on side-wall), wash the tires well. Make sure the air pressure is correct. Inspect tires for cracking of rubber on side walls, both outer and inner, and between tread. Also note condition and amount of wear on the tread and look for cuts, punctures or any other signs of damage. If worn, cracked or otherwise damaged replace before your next trip. Once you are sure your tires are clean and in good condition, apply a protectant such as Black Cat, ProtectAll or similar product to all surfaces of tire. Place tires on blocks or device such as Lynx Levelers, don’t forget to chock tires so prevent roll off. To best prevent damage to tires from weather and UV cover the tires with tire covers. Don’t forget to include your spare tire in this simple maintenance.
Feb. 2006	Winter or long-term storage of RVs equipped with batteries can present certain problems. Batteries will slowly discharge on their own. The batteries will discharge quicker when left installed and unused in a vehicle. Discharged batteries are prone to freezing during winter storage. Except for certain situations frozen batteries are not covered under warranty. There are several ways to prevent battery freeze up. One way is to remove all batteries from the RV and store them in an area maintained above freezing temperatures. Another way is to start vehicle engine and let the engine run at operating temperature for a while one or two times a month. How long to run the engine would depend on how often it is run and the condition and number of batteries. Of course this will not work with travel trailers. One of the best ways is to use a battery maintenance device such as on board chargers or a low rate charger with over charge protection to keep the batteries charged (fully charged batteries will not freeze). One of the advantages of this method is the batteries are always fully charged and the RV is always ready for use.
Jan. 2006	Batteries are often one of the most neglected components of an RV. With a little care batteries can give years of reliable service, but when not maintained, can be a major inconvenience or even the cause of a breakdown. Most RVs have one or two deep cycle batteries, and in the case of motor homes one or more batteries dedicated to engine and chassis use. Most deep cycle batteries are not maintenance free, which means the electrolyte level needs to be checked periodically. Depending on use battery electrolyte should be checked at least once a month and topped off with distilled water as necessary. Batteries allowed to “boil dry” may not accept a charge when fluid is added, and this is often not a warranted failure. Most engine/ chassis batteries are maintenance free and will require little user intervention. You should check all your batteries and know which are maintenance free and which are not. All battery connections should be kept clean and tight. All batteries should be kept charged by use of onboard charging devices or external battery chargers.